Now, I find myself making a few bits an bobs at home and in the need of some of this blue stuff I found a tin on the bay of what I thought was the stuff I was looking for, came in a small flat tin, now it's blue, good start, goes every ware I remember it doing that as well and seems to do the job up to a point.
Have I got the right stuff, I can't seem to remember what was on the tin I am at work now and can't find it on the bay either Tags: None. Dave, There is layout dye. Dykem is a common brand. Many people just use a Sharpie or other permanent marker.
Get one of the jumbo ones. The other stuff which I think you have is Prussian Blue or spotting ink. Used to transfer interference between parts for fitting. It's not supposed to dry out. Comment Post Cancel. Short answer - yeah you got the wrong stuff. Hope this helps Bryan. Thanks guys for a very quick answer, what a muppet I am Right, big fat marker, how simple is that Great answer Thanks again Supplied in a 38g tin.
Weight: g. Add to Favourites More Info. Micrometer Engineers Marking Blue M Document Downloads View Downloads. Video Library View Videos. Model engineering club news Model Engineers' Workshop. News from advertisers in Our Magazines and Website. I just use a small artists paint brush. Don't need to clean between uses as any dried blue on the brush will soften as soon as you dip it in again.
I keep a box of cotton buds in the workshop - soak the tip of one in blue and paint it on - if it's a large area then put a little puddle on the work and spread with a bud.
Are you talking about ''Marking Blue' - thick and greaselike in a round tin or tube or 'Marking Out Blue' sometimes called 'Layout Blue' - this is fluid - solvent based like ink in a bottle? The first - 'Marking Blue' sometimes called 'High Spot' is for just that, finding high spots between two mating surfaces, This is best applied neat by spreading smearing it very thinly with a small piece of rag over one surface then mating it to the other- any high spots will be readily apparent.
Marking Blue does not dry quickly and can be re-'smeared'. It's not designed for marking out. This dries very rapidly - in seconds and will 'pick up' if you try to apply another layer so get a uniform coating before marking out.
The Permanent marker that John mentions are ideal for this latter task - especially those big wiide industrial ones - a much better and cleaner way of doing the job. I hope I'm not teaching Granny here but I guess you would not be asking were you not in the dark. Ramon is quite right - You want layout blue which is like an ink which dries.. You have a pale blue tin of dark blue grease? That's for putting between two surfaces when you want to check a fit. Not the same stuff at all. The idea of the grease is that it transfers from one surface to another, indicating where you should scrape, where you are out of round or whatever.
You have the wrong stuff - or a lifetime supply of something useful, depending on your point of view. Copper sulphate is hard to beat when used on steel but not too user friendly as has been mentioned. For most of my Toolmaking days I used a permanent marker which worked just fine, convenient too!
Maybe Tony one can make it user friendly You made me think.
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