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A copy of such consent must be attached to this form. Guidance on this can be found here: Getting Permission. What about today? L'Aiguille Verte Bertrand Delapierre On the occasion of the th anniversary of the first ascent of the Aiguille Verte, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is making a film that traces the main dates of this summit that is so dear to it. L'Aiguille Verte Bertrand Delapierre France 16 min On the occasion of the th anniversary of the first ascent of the Aiguille Verte, the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix is making a film that traces the main dates of this summit that is so dear to it.
What do they get from the mountains and what do they do to the mountains? These questions are the basis for this two hour documentary. This is the first film which takes a unique and comprehensive approach to this extensive subject.
There is no commentary necessary, as the protagonists giving their account of the cultural history are experts in their field and quite charismatic personalities. This documentary film is not only conveyed through the lavish pictures or alpinistic enthusiasm, but through the individuals narrating each chapter. The programme, a coproduction of the Swiss, French, Italian and British televisions, was shown throughout Europe, in the United States and in Japan in a series of 5 broadcasts between 8 and 16h.
This film, by the Swiss television, is a summary of the live broadcasts in a in a single program. They follow the progression of Michel Darbellay and Hilti von Allmen who climb the north face by the Schmidt route. The program ends when all the teams meet at the summit. En direct du Cervin A climb to mark the th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, live on TV. This film is the reedited version by the french televison of all the broadcasts in a single program.
All them meet at the summit. Michel Vaucher, Yvette Vaucher and Othmar Kronig who were also ascending the north face are interviewed, and the program ends with the television teams descending the mountain. Ettore Bich and Paul Etter were ascended by the italian side. Zermatt und das 'hore' Paul Borer A semi amateur film originally produced in 8mm by Paul Borer to celebrate the centenary of the first ascent to the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper.
The film reviews the history of the mountain showing illustrations of the achievements of the first climbers and also collects images of the centenary celebrations in the village of Zermatt in The title of the film refers to the Hore, a dialect of Zermatt. Zermatt und das 'hore' Paul Borer Switzerland 28 min A semi amateur film originally produced in 8mm by Paul Borer to celebrate the centenary of the first ascent to the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper. Cervino, storia della prima scalata History of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, on the occasion of the th anniversary.
The climbing group was led by the British climber Edward Whymper. However, these conditions are also drivers of natural selection, at the origin of an atypical and largely unknown biodiversity Marx et al. Since the founding event of the scientific exploration of the high mountains — the ascent of the Mont Blanc by Saussure in — some observations of living organisms at high elevations have been made.
Saussure thus noted, during his descent from the summit, the presence of Moss Campion Silene acaulis subsp. This was the first biological observation ever made in high mountains. Humboldt systematically referred to the ascent of Saussure in his physical and biogeographic illustrations of the Andean summits. Some of them, such as the invention of isotherms or the highlighting of altitudinal and latitudinal vegetation zones, have won posterity Debarbieux, Saussure and Humboldt were important supporters of field science, which ensures both the production of facts Latour, and a sensitive experience of reality guaranteeing a connection to the nature being studied Livingston, But the experience of a real space, the impregnation of the terrain cannot be summed up in the visual sense alone: it involves the whole body Outram, And the high mountain, as the terrestrial margin of living things, is a space that intensifies the temporality of human bodies lack of oxygen, continuous muscular effort, constant dehydration.
If it is understood that getting to know each other involves the psychic and the cognitive, in the high mountains it also requires a whole-body experience.
It will be necessary to wait until the birth of mountaineering as a leisure activity for a certain renewal of the exploration of this terrestrial margin.
In the first alpine club was born: the Alpine club of London. The majority of them have many other motivations than science to climb them: the fascination, the sublime, the glory, the adventure Macfarlane, Socially and culturally not very avowable, these impulses towards the summits have had to drape themselves with legitimacy.
Science, especially natural history, was one of the keys to acceptability. Mountaineering could produce facts of science in a geographical space where the bodies of scientists were absent. In certain fields chemistry or mathematics , the laboratory combines these two places. Within the framework of scientific ecology or geology, there is a strong dichotomy between the field and its in situ observations and the laboratory — a confined space where all the studied parameters are controlled; a space also considered as the place of conceptualization.
This dichotomy occupied a central place in the structuring of science at the beginning of the 19th century, with Georges Cuvier as a central personality. Inventor of comparative anatomy, the latter considered the laboratory or study cabinet as the real places of thought and knowledge, stressing that explorations had neither the temporal investment nor the spatial scope sufficient to fully account for reality Outram, Conversely, many scholars have seen in field exploration the gateway to their thinking about the world: Saussure, Humboldt, Orbigny, Dolomieu, Wallace and the most famous of all, Darwin.
As a young scientist, he circumnavigated the world for five years aboard the Beagle. The finches he observed in the Galapagos will become the most popular illustration of his future theory of the origin of species. Although Darwin did not travel afterwards, his later work owes much to this initial expedition. Many of these exploration trips were thus equated with initiation rites in the academic world, to the point that these same academies issued practical recommendations for expedition reports and the collection of natural specimens.
Field and laboratory are the two terms of science used by Reichenbach cited in Hacking, to define it: the context of discovery and the context of justification. The discovery thus consists of the exploration, the unknown, the locations and the spaces not yet occupied by scientists.
It depends on the social, historical and geographical context. The justification is only a question of pure reason, freed from all historicity. It is thus theorization, conceptualization confined to the laboratory. It does not claim that mountaineers will thus become scientists, but that they will be able, through the commitment of their bodies, to contribute to science, to produce knowledge. This categorization raises the very question of the definition of a scholar.
Professionalization and de facto membership to various universities or academies simplify the social definition of the researcher. But in the 18th and 19th centuries, this professionalization was far from being the norm. And membership to academies was not synonymous with scientific production.
He proposed an order to the world by means of his words Foucault, Very often, his theories were based on his own experiences, whether in the field or in the laboratory. High mountain environemnts, which largely remained as terra incognita in the middle of the 19th century, thus became one of the first terrestrial spaces where this partition of science was exercised.
The example of the mountaineer Edward Whymper is enlightening in more than one way. Whymper will magnificently accomplish his task, and even more revolutionize mountaineering by climbing major summits never reached before.
The culmination of his hunger for heights is the first ascent of the Matterhorn 4, m , on July 14, But this ascent also conferred glory to Whymper. While barely 25 years old, he joined the Royal Society , a very elitist club which assured the young man fruitful meetings with eminent scientists of the time: the botanist Joseph Hooker, the anthropologist Francis Galton, the entomologist Henry Bates or the geologist Charles Lyell.
After an intuitive and methodless start in science plant observations on the Lion Ridge, on the Italian side of the Matterhorn , his relations within the Royal Society convinced him to set up a scientific expedition in search of fossils in the Disko Bay, Greenland.
He took advice from the scientists of his acquaintance — especially the great entomologist and Amazon explorer Henry Bates — and, like Humboldt, invested in numerous measuring instruments. He also recruited a scientist in charge of carrying out cartographic surveys and organizing herbaria and fossil collections.
This recruitment turned out to be a disaster, as the individual, named Brown, proved to be an ambitious jealous of Whymper Smith, Viburnum whymperi black arrow , fossil tree described by Heer from the samples brought back by Whymper from his expedition. Source : Heer O. Edward Whymper during the summer of In the 19th century, the organization of intermediate objects intended for science reached its apogee in Museums, where the arrangement of collections reconfigured Nature in a confined space Livingston, His objectives remain plural: while he aims more than ever to contribute to scientific knowledge, he also wants to climb the highest peaks ever reached by a human being.
Relying on his friendship with Bates, he trained himself in the specific techniques of collecting insects and some other biological groups such as snakes and amphibians. The members of the expedition will return to France almost 20 years after their departure and will validate this theory. An outstanding example of field science. He considers that the latter had not been as high in altitude as he claimed it has since been widely accepted that Humboldt tended to report events with a certain leeway Wulf, Whymper and his companions harly made the first ascent of Chimborazo 6, m figure 2 , where he highlighted the possibility and necessity of acclimatization to high altitude.
In the same time, they made the first ascent of the Antisana 5, m , a mountain that inspired Humboldt in his work on the zonation of vegetation Moret et al. Figure 2: Chimborazo summit on the first ascent engraving.
Chimborazo summit on the first ascent. Joseph-Antoine Carrel foreground carries a barometer to measure altitude. Engraving by Edward Whymper. Source : Whymper E. Travels amongst the great Andes of the Equator, John Murray. Henry Bates add to hire seven assistants to face the astronomical quantity of samples to be studied.
Among these species, are new to science, with no less than 14 new genera. These figures are colossal for taxonomic work. Seven taxa were dedicated to Whymper: three beetles Heterogomphus whymperi , Prionocalus whymperi figure 3 , Xenismus whymperi , an ant Holcoponera whymperi , a bug Pnohirmus whymperi , a snake Coronella whimperi and a frog Hylodes whymperi.
A scientific consecration for a man who climbed up to the highest altitudes ever reached during his lifetime and brought to light an exceptionnal and unsuspected biodiversity. Prionocalus whymperi , beetle brought back from the Andes by Whymper. This species new to science was described by Bates and dedicated to Whymper. But like Darwin, he missed a key point: if all the species discovered by Whymper above 4, m were new to science, it is because high mountains act as a powerful engine for the emergence of new species, through strong natural selection pressures Rahbek et al.
Whatever the remarkable merits of Whymper, his scientific contribution took shape thanks to the encouragement, support, and conceptualization brought by Henry Bates — and before him, by Oswald Heer. Latour takes up the concept invested by Serres and defines the mediator as a translator. There he discovered and collected three plant species at 3, m of altitude Dentant and Moine,
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